Best Buy Brand New Bottom Hard Drive Flex Cable For Mac

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• Best Buy Brand New Bottom Hard Drive Flex Cable For Mac Computer

923-0001 Mac Mini, Power Cord Cable, Mac Mini A1347 Apple Part Number: 923-0001. Apple Service Part: 622-0349, 922-9554, 923-0001, Power Cord Cable Replacement, Apple Mac Mini A1347.

Apple Manufacturer Part Number (MPN): N/A. Apple EEE Code: N/A. Condition: Brand New, Genuine Apple Service Part, Sealed in Apple Service Packing. Warranty: 90 days.

A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to 'cam out' (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point-not the lousy fake 'precision' screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake 'precision' screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at: 'Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as 'Phillips #00' or 'Torx T5.' These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a 'Size 8' dress.' In other words, the quality of many 'precision' screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake 'precision' Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a 'precision screwdriver', it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more. The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13' does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM.

OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

Some info here: '1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM' '.Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM.' Our Mid 2010 already had 'the latest EFI' (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant. The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.

I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are NOT the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the 'Give the author +30 points' button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good.

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It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore.

My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together.:-) THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added. Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery.

If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more. This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug!:) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery.

AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again. I don't know which of the following did it. 1) I ran all software updates to the OS using the MacBook before transferring the drive again into the MBP, and 2) when I installed the drive I disconnected the battery – perhaps this reset the SMC.

While booting, I held Option and it recognized the new HD right away. From then on, it booted fine. Citazione da Blake: I did this exactly with a 7200 RPM WD Scorpio that I had been using in my MacBook 13' Unibody (before Apple discontinued that).

I get a nasty crash on boot, even with the OS X 10.6 Install DVD. I mean BSOD-equivalent crash. The MacBook Pro is brand new. Anybody know why this happens?

Had no issue since installation of a 7200RPM WD Scorpio 750GB drive and had no issues with vibration. I did notice back when I got this MacBook Pro though, the pre-installed Apple branded drive was only performing at half of the 3Gbps potential (1.5) I could see letting Apple get away with that on a consumer level machine but for the premium price, I expect performance. Needless to say even running the same HDD on my same MBP, I've had not a single problem with the HDD upgrade.

Best money spent on it along with additional RAM. Taking the two little screws from the cable was easy.

Best Buy Brand New Bottom Hard Drive Flex Cable For Mac Computer

Putting them back was another story LOL. It really would have been helpful to have a magnetic precision screwdriver so the teeeeeeny little screws would stick to it.

Because trying to get them back into the hole, when the new cable is still kinda bouncy and not bent to those sharp right angles. I actually launched one of them about 3 feet away when my finger slipped and the cable popped up with the screw in the hole (but not yet tightened). Luckily I found it, and eventually got them screwed back in! I agree that this is the trickiest part of the job, and is the least documented. Getting orange ribbon cable off is relatively easy, but reseating it onto the new cable was an moment.

My approach was to slide the side of a credit card underneath and use that as an in situ support. I was then able to exert some lateral force to reseat the orange cable connector into the connector on the black plastic terminal piece of the new cable. NB: I did unpeel the sticky back of the black piece before reconnecting cables. Advice: at the end, stick the length of the cable to the case following the original path; make sure it is flush with the other side of the case on the short vertical drop. Any slack in the cable length will foul the replacement of the back IR sensor assembly. (PS: got my cable cheaply from eBay, but I note that the date stamped on the cable is 2009, so if it was a faulty batch from that period, maybe I have a problem in store for the future.?). Pic 1,2: the new 2012 cable does not fit on the old 2009 Mac.

Pic 3: the 2009 cable on the 2009 Mac. Pic 4, 5: both cables 2012 821-1480-A (new but does not fit), 2009 821-0814-1 (defective, to be replaced). Pic 6: the clamp closed. Pic 7: the clamp opened with orange ribbon still in. Pic 8, 9: orange ribbon out. I could open the clamp with nail. I could unscrew with PH00.

Some crews hard as mentioned. Sorry for the bad pictures, I did not set my camera at max resolution. Presbytes have good lenses!

In step #8 the two small screws were very tight in my computer. The Phillips #00 was too large and damaging the screws. I changed to a Phillips #000 applied substantial pressure and voila, the screws came off.

Reassembly: placing the IR sensor cable (the one you'peeled off' in step #9) is a bit tricky. Start from the side opposite the IR sensor (the side with the two small screws of step 8) and press first along the short vertical side and then across towards the IR section.

There should be a little left for a vertical section at the IR sensor end.